Collar or cuff



(No Model.)

J. D. PARSONS.

COLLAR OR CUFF.

No. 353,642. Patented Nov. 30, 1886.

Wi in e M ea N. PETERS. PhnloLilhbgmpher, wzshin UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES DUANE PARSONS, OF SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS.

CO LLAR OR CUFF.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 353,642, dated November 30, 1836,

Application filed August 25, 1886. Serial No. 211,782. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES DUANE PARSONS, of Springfield, in the State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Iinprovementin Collars, Cuffs, and Like Articles, of which the following is a specification.

My improvement relates to collars and cuffs made of clothfaced paper-that is to say, paper faced with muslin or other thin fabric-- which material may, if desired, be waterproofed or coated with celluloid or zylonite; and it has particular reference to the preparation of those edges of the article which are folded, or folded and pasted or gummed.

According to the usual mode of procedure heretofore followed it has been the practice to employ acompound fabrica cloth-faced fabrie consisting of paper faced on both sides with muslin or other thin textile material, which, whether externally coated or not with zylonite, has been folded upon itself along the desired line or lines of fold, and the folded edges thus formed have been pressed down and gummed or pasted to the body of the fabric. Consequently along the folded edges of thefabric there have been two entire thicknesses of material, and the pasting or gumming has taken place between two cloth or textile faces. Material disadvantages result from this. There is, in the first place, undue thickness at the edges. Then it is difficult to unite cloth to cloth by pasting, so that there is liability of the parts separating. Again, unless a long-fibered, and consequentlyexpensive, paper is used, the paper of the fold is liable to split, and to thus separate from the cloth layer of the fold that is gummed down upon the body of the fabric. In case the fabric is coated with zylonite, the zylonite is liable to break along the line where it is turned over or folded. Moreover, in making collars and cuffs it is difficult, under these circumstances, to make a neat and perfect miter at the angles where the folded edges meet.

These and other disadvantages which might be mentioned conspire to render the ordinary method of forming the fold unfit for the uses for which it is designed, this being particularly the case in the manufacture of collars and cuffs, which require perfect fold-lines and neat and presentable edges and angles. I

have obviated these objections by scoring or.

partially cutting through the fabric on that face on which the fold is to be laid-the line of score or partial out being along the edge to be foldedand then stripping from the fabric the strip included between the line of score or partial cut and the outer edge, thus removing from this portion of the fabric the inner muslin or textile lining and leaving exposed the paper which forms the interior of the fabric. In this way I reduce the fabric about onehalf in thickness in that portion of it which is to be folded, and I provide for the fold a paper face, which can be gummed or pasted very tightly to the body of the fabric upon which the fold is laid.

The nature of my improvement and the manner in which the same is or may be carried into effect can, however, best be explained and understood by reference to the accompanying drawings,'in which Figure l is a view of a portion of a strip of compound fabric such as is ordinarily used for making collars (out on the interlocking plan) or cuffs, with the longer edges scored and a portion of one of the scored edges partially removed or stripped from the body of the fabric. Fig. 2 is a cross-section of the same.

' Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a cuff with its folded edges broken away at different points. Fig. 4 is a like view of a collar.

In all of the figures the different layers are drawn on an exaggerated scale, in order to show more clearly the nature of my improvement. As a matter of fact, however, the fabric is only just about as thick as that usually found in a linen collar or cuff.

The material is a compound fabric composed of a central sheet or web, a, of paper, faced on both sides with muslin or other thin textile fabric, 72, united with the paper by paste or gum and pressure in well known manner, and this fabric may, as shown, be externally coated with a thin film or sheet, 0, of zylonite.

The longer edges of the fabric in Figs. 1 and 2 represent those edges which form in the finished articles the longer edges of the collar or cuff, as the case may be.

of the fabric, or that face on which the fold is laid, I first make a partial cut or score, d, near to and parallel with each edge, this partial In the inner face cut or score extending through the inner muslin or fabric facing, b, into the papercenter -a. I then remove or peel off from the body depth of the score or partial out. In any event, however, some of the paper fibers adhere to and are removed with the muslin strip, thus leaving exposed on the fold portion a paper surface, which is admirably adapted to make a firm joint when folded and pasted down upon the body of the fabric. 4 The scoreline d, I prefer to make along the line of fold, as shown. In this way. the edge of the unscored portion forms a guide for turning over the fold, thus enabling me to dispense withthe use of creasers, which heretofore have been employed to crease the line of fold preparatory tofolding over the edges of the fabric.

In the example given in Fig. 3 the cuff is folded on all four edges in accordance with my improvement. In other respects it is madein accordance with the method set forth in Letters'Patent No. 324,267 of August 11, 1885.

In the turn-down collar shown in Fig. ithe folds on the longer and two shorter edges of the turn-down portion ofthe collar embody my improvement.

As before remarked, by my invention I am enabled to use a short fibered cheap paper, be-,

, cause there is not that liability of the paper splitting which exists when the fabric is simply doubled upon itself. Furthermore, it is apparent that a neater and less bulk'y edge is obtained, and that by reason of the exposure of the paper on the stri ppedportion of the fold the folded portion Will unite more firmly and securely with the body. I am also enabled to make a neater, closer, and more perfect miter at the angles 6, where the folded edges of the cuff or collar meet, and the scored edge can be turned to a closer j'point at the termini of the foldingdines of the collar or cuff, this being particularly a thing to be desired at the points f on the fold-line of the turn-down collar in Fig. 4. In fine, by-my improvement I am enabled to impart a finished appearance to those points on the collar or cuff which under existing methods are too often apt to look unfinished, ragged, and unpresentable.

I have above stated that I prefer the scoreline d to be coincident with the line of fold. This, however, is not absolutely necessary. I can, for instance, score the fabric for a width greater than that of the fold, even to the extent of making it double that of the fold, as

indicated by dotted lined, Fig. 1, so that when the fold is laid there will be two paper surfaces in contact. As before remarked, in the case of a zylonite-coated fabric my improvement also reduces the liability of the zylonite breaking along the line of fold in the operation of folding. I

Having now described myimprovementand the manner in which the same is or may be carried into effect, what I claim herein as new and of my own invention is 1. A cloth-surfaced paper collar or cuff having a folded and pasted edge, the inner face of said collar orcufi being scored or partially cut and stripped of the cloth facing beneath the fold and outside the line of cut, substantially I as hereinbefore set forth.

2. The improvement in the art of forming cuffs, consisting in scoring or partially cutting through the material along the edges-on that folded edges on cloth-surfaced paper collars or face on which the fold is to be laid, thenstripping from the fabric between the score-line and the adjoining edge the muslin or cloth facing, I so as to expose the paper interior of the fabric,

and then folding said stripped portion down upon and pasting it to the body of the fabric, as and for the purposes hereinbefore set forth. In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 21st day of August, 1886.

JAMES DUANE PARSONS.- Witnesses:

GEO. W. TAPLEY, S. L. KENYoN. 

